What To Look For When Buying A Suppressor
BY Herschel Smith
7 years ago
In general, you want to start off with the largest diameter suppressor you think you’ll need. You can shoot 9 mm through a .45 ACP can, albeit with a slight increase in noise due to the larger opening, but you cannot shoot .45 ACP through a 9 mm can. Also, in general, shorter and smaller suppressors are going to be louder, because they have less volume to soak up the expanding gasses escaping from the muzzle.
When it comes to mounting your suppressor on the barrel of your gun, Knox says that direct-thread suppressors will have more versatility because they will fit on any barrel threaded to the same pitch. However, you will occasionally need to tighten the fit, as it can work loose as you shoot. A quick-detach (QD) mount, allows for faster attaching and detaching from one gun to another, but it pretty much locks you into using one manufacturer’s quick-detach mount on all your guns.
When it comes to specific types of suppressors, there are essentially three different types: Rimfire, centerfire pistol, and centerfire rifle. Rimfire suppressors are less expensive and weigh less because the pressure buildup inside the can is much less than with a centerfire round. However, rimfire rounds, especially .22 LR, tend to shoot a lot dirtier than their centerfire cousins, which means that easy disassembly for a cleaning is vital in a rimfire can.
Centerfire-pistol suppressors have unique features as well. Most service pistols today use some variation of a tilting-barrel delayed blowback action, and hanging a suppressor off the barrel of such guns can make it significantly less reliable due to the extra weight on the barrel. A muzzle booster or Nielsen device inside the can momentarily relieves that weight, much like jumping up inside an elevator going down can give you a brief feeling of weightlessness and lets the pistol function normally. Also, because most suppressors block the sight picture from normal-height pistol sights, suppressor-height sights are almost a must for a pistol that has a can.
When it comes to rifles, the weight of your suppressor matters less than it does with a pistol. A rifle already weighs at least several pounds, so the few ounces of a suppressor added onto it are less noticeable compared to pistol cans, and because of the power of rounds they shoot, centerfire rifle cans are much more robust than either pistol or rimfire suppressors.
Because rifles don’t use a tilting-block action, there is little need for a Nielsen Device or other muzzle booster. But because of increased distance they can shoot, a consistent point of impact with or without a suppressor on the gun is of vital importance to the accuracy of the rifle. Hanging a weight off the muzzle end of a rifle and messing with how the propellant gases exit the barrel is going to affect how the bullet leaves your gun. There will probably be a point of impact (POI) shift when you attach a suppressor to your rifle, but better-engineered cans will affect your POI less than others. In general, as long as the POI shift you get when you attach a suppressor to your rifle is consistent and repeatable, you can adjust for it and keep on shooting your gun.
Time will tell if suppressors become more available to armed citizens, but in the meantime, take your time and do your research before you choose a can that’s right for you. The legal complexities of owning a suppressor (not to mention the extra $200 you need to pay the government to own one) means that buying the right suppressor for you is even more important than buying a gun that’s right for you.
I’ve lately been discussing suppressors with a neighbor since I don’t believe anyone in Washington has the guts necessary to press the SHARE act, at least not without also giving something away so that the state may further infringe upon our rights (the example, by the way, being set by the NRA). Moreover, they may give something away without ever getting a thing. Most “men” in Washington aren’t fit to clean dog shit off the floor.
What I’ve found is that it’s difficult to get good advice on suppressors, there are almost no really good reviews, and the discussion forums are mostly void of buyer and user remarks and experience. This is a shame with something that ends up being as expensive as it is.
Any experience with suppressors by readers is welcome in the comments or by EMail. Preferably use comments so that we can all learn.
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On November 15, 2017 at 12:57 am, J said:
On and Off Topic….
Watch(ing) the Original Scarface from 1932.
Interesting to say the least.
On November 15, 2017 at 2:36 am, DAN III said:
ALCON,
My experience lies with:
1. SWR SPECTRE .22 lr suppressor
2. AAC 7.62 SD suppressor
3. SILENCERCO 556K SAKER suppressor
All three above per, over a period of 9 years, on the advise of my Class 3 dealer.
One of my concerns is the ability to run the suppressor off as many platforms as possible without worrying about different mounts on every host weapon. Proprietary mounts are a PITA. But, it is what it is. IMO one of the most common, aftermarket muzzle devices out there are the AAC mounts. Their various mounts are available in different, threaded (18t, 51t & 90t) pitches and suppressor mounting styles. Their muzzle devices are also available for non-suppressor use (no mounting threads, etc.). On the advice of my dealer I acquired the 7.62 SD. It is 9 inches long and being .30 caliber rated works on 5.56mm, 300 BLK, and 7.62mm weapons. Of course one has to have the AAC mounts on all longarms to swap amongst your weapons. In that sense, the 30 caliber can is “universal”. Just install AAC muzzle devices on all your suppressor hosts. Regarding decibel/noise suppression….the larger volume can also works better to suppress the noise of firing. However, any suppressor works best with subsonic ammo. My AAC 7.62 SD is used primarily with subsonic, 300 AAC rounds. It is extremely “hearing safe” with that caiber/load.
SilencerCo was recently suggested by my Class 3 guy as the latest & greatest in suppressor development. Unique to SilencerCo is the ability to use their different mount adapters for the suppressors of various manufacturers. Of course you’ll incur an additional cost if you need an optional adapter. But, it is worth it to maintain uniformity & simplicity with your suppressor hosts. As there is no 5.56mm subsonic ammo all that I shoot it supersonic. The 556k SAKER knocks the noise down to acceptable, hearing-safe levels. It is lightweight and short (5.5 inches). It works well for balance on SBRs and Bullpups such as the IWI X-95 chambered in 5.56 × 45.
Personally, I believe every .22lr owner should acquire a .22lr suppressor. The SWR SPECTRE is a direct thread,1/28 pitch mount. Basically, the direct thread mount allows it to be installed on any .22lr chambered weapon, pistol or rifle. Most, if not all, .22lr suppressors are direct thread, 1/28 pitch mounts. The .22lr suppressors are lightweight and not cumbersome. They quiet subsonic .22lr ammo noise down to “Hollywood” sound levels. They also suppress .22lr supersonic pretty darn good. I suggest CCI subsonic .22lr ammo. Quiet and will cycle semi-auto actions. Also, by CCI, is their “QUIET” brand of .22lr subsonic ammo. This stuff is BB gun quiet ! Just know it will not cycle semi-auto actions. This is most likely the stuff the CIA likes.
I have no complaints with any of the 3 brands I listed. They perform to my satisfaction.
Links:
http://www.advanced-armament.com
https://silencerco.com
SPECTRE Suppressors = No link as they were acquired about six years ago by SilencerCo.
In closing….do not take retail prices at the various online dealers as gospel. My Class 3 guy has beaten the best online quote for the recent SilencerCo 556k Saker by 30% !
Shop around. Support local dealers.
Good luck.
FWIW.
On November 15, 2017 at 7:44 am, Tom said:
I’m pretty pleased with the SilencerCo Osprey and the AAC SDN556 (I forgot what the exact model is, it’s the basic one that is quick-detach and is 556 only)
I got a 45 cal Osprey and also a couple of adapters so it can fit on 9mm and on 45 handguns. The Osprey is kind of funky looking, in that it has a rectangular cross-section similar to the shape of the handgun slide- when attached, it looks like a 6″ or so extension of the slide. The flat top and off-center profile means that it blocks your view of the sights less than a round cylindrical suppressor would.
I really like the QD aspect of the AAC SDN can. For about $100, you can replace the A2 flashider on an AR or threaded barrel rifle, and use the can on several rifles.
Here’s a technical thing to consider for the qd mount- the dealer I bought the 556 can from explained to me that I could get a regular flash-hider qd mount, or a qd mount that is a compensator rather than just a flash hider. The baffles of the compensator take some of the brunt of the expanding gasses and save wear-and-tear on the can. So I have one or two of those, thinking of course I want to not wear the can out.
Well, a couple of years later, I’d choose differently now. What the guy said is true, but I think most of us aren’t going to be throwing the round count downrange for that to be a factor. Part of that is that I enjoy shooting a suppressed rifle, and I do shoot quite a bit, but I don’t shoot suppressed nearly as much as I thought I would. For a 223/556 rifle, I don’t need the recoil reduction from a compensator, and I’m certainly not fond of how much damn louder it is than a non-compensator rifle (especially when shooting under some kind of overhead cover or a roof).
I would just put regular flash-hider qd mounts on my rifles and accept that the can will take a bit more umph with each round. There are exceptions to this, that’s just my experience. (ie. I met one NFA enthusiast who has bunches of these things- he has qd mounts but leaves the can on most of his rifles all the time, and only shoots them suppressed)
By the way, one technical thing to consider with suppressors and ARs- my rifles have always functioned well and reliably, but, but, boy shooting a direct impingement AR with a suppressor is just plain dirty/filthy. Shoot half a magazine suppressed and then pull the mag out, you won’t believe how much sooty fouling has been blown down in there from just 15 rounds or so. The rifle could probably tolerate a lot of this before it started to affect reliability, just something to know. (I’d also say to just live with it, most piston-ARs don’t seem to hold up as well to heavy use as the direct gas ones. By “heavy use” I mean take it through a typical 2-3 carbine class where you’re putting 500+ rounds a day through it. I shoot the rifle unsuppressed for those type of activities)
There are more FFLs than you might think around you that sell suppressors. If you’re maybe in the market for one, definitely visit the dealer to see what he can offer, what he says about the pros and cons of various ones, etc.
I bought one from a local storefront FFL, and also from an appointment-only guy a bit further away from me but who I knew and trusted. A good dealer will be able to help explain the legal as well as the technical aspects.
Assuming we don’t get a major change wrt suppressors and the NFA, you also should put some thought into whether you’re going to acquire it as an individual , or if you’ll form an NFA trust to acquire it.
I’m not a lawyer and this isn’t legal advice, but, I went the route of getting an NFA-competent attorney and doing a trust. You don’t necessarily need an attorney to create an (NFA) trust. And as said above, you don’t necessarily need a trust.
You should understand that you could be playing with fire legally, if you have NFA items and have other people such as family members who could have access to them. And unfortunately, intent to break the law isn’t necessary, we’re dealing with Kafka-esque terms like “constructive possession” and others. This reason alone is a pretty good one to consider having an NFA trust, and make those people trustees. Yes it cost a little extra $ to get a trust, and more $ to get an attorney. I know good people who did the lawyer-on-a-CD thing to create their trust they used to buy NFA items. For me, I think it makes sense that if you invest in firearms and defensive training (you do, don’t you?) then it only makes sense to consult with a professional. Your mileage may vary as they say, but you should be aware you’re making a significant decision with potentially heavy consequences if you screw it up somehow. However you do it, make sure you get it right and don’t mess up.
On November 15, 2017 at 8:41 am, Heywood said:
I have always liked Silencerco…great products and customer service. Luckily (knock on wood) I haven’t had to use this part of their warranty, but have read about others who have…it says:
“Our industry-leading repair turnaround even warranties stupid…once.”
On November 15, 2017 at 9:08 am, Sam said:
My experience consists of shooting a wide variety of suppressors and owning one, purchased using an NFA trust.
For pretty much any shooting, a suppressor improves the experience. Less recoil, less noise, and it seems to really smooth out handgun shooting (probably the additional weight in front).
For rifles, a QD mount is pretty much a must-have. It is not just about quick deployment—although that matters—but also about having the suppressor consistently index to the same exact placement without needing a torque wrench and keeping it from coming loose after repeated firing. As a result, this keeps the (minimal) POI changes consistent and prevents suppressor damage. Additionally, for rifles, it seems that the suppression difference is not that large when using a larger can, so getting a can rated for/sized for the largest round you shoot is a prudent idea. If shooting supersonic ammo, it’s not going to really be that quiet anyway—it just brings it down to hearing safe range.
For handguns, it seems threaded is the only way to go, and you probably need a Nielsen device. I purchased my Silencerco Osprey with the spring-loaded Nielsen device threaded for my barrel, but I can purchase an additional non-moving adapter if I wanted to switch this suppressor over to a rifle platform. It’s also rated for subsonic .300 blackout, so this was an attractive option for the future. Unless really tightened down, a threaded suppressor may loosen some during firing; mine seems to work its way slightly loose (about an eighth of a turn, noticeable with the asymmetric design of the Osprey) after 30-40 rounds. It’s easy to quickly retighten it, but you have to have gloves or a hot mitt or you will burn yourself.
Handguns will need non-factory sights. Suppressor-height sights are a great option, but the front sight may hang up on some holsters so check drawing performance before relying on that holster. Reflex/red-dot pistol sights really shine with suppressors, however, the blowback from a suppressor will cloud the sight’s front glass quickly (it wipes clean easily using a microfiber cloth).
Handguns can get REALLY REALLY quiet if using subsonic ammunition and especially if you shoot the suppressor “wet” (basically 5-10 mL of water inside that vaporizes during your shot). Because of this, my sense is that the best performance is had with a suppressor sized precisely for the round being fired.
The round diameter is important, but it is also important to note suppressor ratings. Each suppressor is rated for the maximum pressure it can reasonably sustain, and this dictates not just caliber but also different loads—the Osprey, for instance, is not rated for the pressure of a supersonic 300 blackout load.
Cleaning is easy except for .22LR; these have dedicated suppressors that can be disassembled and will require more extensive cleaning—some friends have used solvents, although an ultrasonic cleaning tank seems to be the best option. My cheap approach has involved a lot more elbow grease and standard gun cleaner.
Both legal possession issues and inheritance issues make an NFA trust a no-brainer. These are easy to set up and relatively inexpensive—I used a firearms attorney through Texas Law Shield’s NFA division and the process of setting up and updating my trust has been painless. Having an attorney available to answer questions is also really useful. With the trust, I can be sure that my wife and family members can “possess” my NFA items with no legal issues and that they can be transferred to my family if I were to die or somehow become unable to keep them.
Travel with suppressors is straightforward—it does not require ATF paperwork like other NFA items, and only requires that they be legal in any state you travel through. Flying with them is like any other firearm, although less-astute airline employees may be more confused when asking to see if it is “unloaded”.
I have no real expectations that suppressors will be removed from the NFA anytime soon, but it sure would be nice. Streamlining the purchase process and reducing the cost by $200 would generate more demand and surely more innovation and lower prices in the industry.
On November 15, 2017 at 10:29 am, Dirk Williams said:
Own many, not loyal to any specific brands, prefer the thread style for stated reasons.
Personally don’t agree with shooting 9 mm or other thru a larger diameter can, but then life is about choices.
A can is a force multiplier especially at night. Highly recommend them, if you see the future, you will understand my observation.
Regarding handgun cans, while I’ve got them, I made a strategic mistake, a suppressed .22 is all I needed. My Ruger with a thunderbeast is the shit. Any brand name of either pistol flavor and can, again is a force multiplier.
Should you go this route, consider subsonic .22rounds, also run a couple hundred of these subsonic S thru the pistol, to determine it you pistol will have cycling issues.
from time to time I have to preform a slide recycle, which is simple, but should be practiced, so your not surprised when a failure to eject occurs. With a suppressed .22 running sub sonic you WILL, experience failures.
The pay off is the truly amazing quiet signature or lack of sonic crack, occurring. Many will say all you hear is the bolt cycle, it’s quiet, but not that quiet.
Good luck.
Dirk
On November 15, 2017 at 5:00 pm, Old Bill said:
Suppressors = mufflers. Therefore the difference in good and bad is not a orders-of-magnitude great, but first of effectiveness, then suitability to your needs, and then value for money. Prioritize you evaluation of unfamiliar designs in this way, and you have a yardstick to judge by that’s at least rational.
EFFECTIVENESS: I look for side-by-side testing on youtube. There’s some out there, and it’s the best data I’ve been able to use for this category. A suppressor that doesn’t reduce sound by at least 29-30 Dba (A weighted decibels) isn’t impressively effective.
SUITABILITY: You have to know what you want it to do. This can be anything, including stylish looks, because it all depends on you. Personally, I look for businesslike looks, weight, length added to the weapon, and quality of construction (Ti or Stelite? ++).
VALUE: This is pretty self-explanatory. There are several VERY NICE cans on the market that meet all other criteria (for me) that simply cost too much to consider (even if I had the cash).
This is how I weigh different designs; your mileage may vary. Almost anything else available to us without finding a store that actually has one on the shelf, is just someone else’s opinion.
On September 7, 2022 at 4:49 am, Rohan said:
Completely agree with Dan regarding that everyone should own a .22 supressor. Personally, I’ve stopped on Silencerco( https://gritrsports.com/silencerco/ ) Switchback. Definitely a bit pricey but worth every dollar in my opinion.