I would not knock this method however I don’t do it this way for AR15s. The eye relief part is how he describes. Get that set and mark where you want the scope mounted. The scope leveling method I use is more precise, IMHO, and you are not depending on the scope turret being perfectly square.
Separate the upper and lower and take out the BCG. Without the scope or mount on the upper, I first level the upper in a vise using a dowel that I wrap with cloth to get it relatively tight in the upper. I clamp the dowel in the vise with the other end of the dowel in the upper. I use a small level to get the upper rail level. I have another small level with a clamp that is placed on the barrel near the front of the rifle. These can be purchased from Wheeler.
Get the level on the upper rail and the level with the clamp on the barrel to agree. The level with the clamp has an adjustment to allow you to dial it in until it is level with the rail level.
Once this has been done you no longer need the the level on the rail. Place the mount and scope where you have them marked for your eye relief and torque the mount to the rail. Tighten the ring screws a little to still allow for adjustment.
I have a plumb line with a weight attached so the line is for sure perpendicular. The plumb line is close to a wall and close to the vise. Position the vise so you can point the rear (ocular end) of the scope at the line. I have a flashlight on a piece of rail riser that I clamp at the front of the scope. Turn the light on. Adjust the diopter until you have a crisp projection of the scopes crosshairs. Check your level at the barrel and then adjust the crosshairs to align with the plumb line. Once that is done to your satisfaction then start torqueing the ring screws. Once the ring screws are properly torqued then check the barrel level and the scope crosshairs for alignment with the plumb line. Adjust if need be.
I find that this method works better than most. I probably did not do the best job describing it. It is really very simple. For a quick and dirty level you can use the feeler gauge method. Mr. Guns and Gear does it this way.
If you have a good scope and can assume a square turret bottom, a good quality rifle with a square rail and a good mount that is assumed to have good precise machining, like a La Rue Mount, and a flat bottom you can use feeler gauges.
Just put enough feeler gauges between the mount and the scope turret bottom. Then tighten the scope ring screws to torque. The flat on the mount and the scope turret bottom will be level. NOTE: You may have to take out some of the feeler gauges as you tighten the ring screws or you could damage the scope by have too much upward force on the bottom of the turret.
This article is filed under the category(s) Firearms,Guns and was published March 31st, 2021 by Herschel Smith.
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On April 1, 2021 at 1:01 pm, George 1 said:
I would not knock this method however I don’t do it this way for AR15s. The eye relief part is how he describes. Get that set and mark where you want the scope mounted. The scope leveling method I use is more precise, IMHO, and you are not depending on the scope turret being perfectly square.
Separate the upper and lower and take out the BCG. Without the scope or mount on the upper, I first level the upper in a vise using a dowel that I wrap with cloth to get it relatively tight in the upper. I clamp the dowel in the vise with the other end of the dowel in the upper. I use a small level to get the upper rail level. I have another small level with a clamp that is placed on the barrel near the front of the rifle. These can be purchased from Wheeler.
Get the level on the upper rail and the level with the clamp on the barrel to agree. The level with the clamp has an adjustment to allow you to dial it in until it is level with the rail level.
Once this has been done you no longer need the the level on the rail. Place the mount and scope where you have them marked for your eye relief and torque the mount to the rail. Tighten the ring screws a little to still allow for adjustment.
I have a plumb line with a weight attached so the line is for sure perpendicular. The plumb line is close to a wall and close to the vise. Position the vise so you can point the rear (ocular end) of the scope at the line. I have a flashlight on a piece of rail riser that I clamp at the front of the scope. Turn the light on. Adjust the diopter until you have a crisp projection of the scopes crosshairs. Check your level at the barrel and then adjust the crosshairs to align with the plumb line. Once that is done to your satisfaction then start torqueing the ring screws. Once the ring screws are properly torqued then check the barrel level and the scope crosshairs for alignment with the plumb line. Adjust if need be.
I find that this method works better than most. I probably did not do the best job describing it. It is really very simple. For a quick and dirty level you can use the feeler gauge method. Mr. Guns and Gear does it this way.
If you have a good scope and can assume a square turret bottom, a good quality rifle with a square rail and a good mount that is assumed to have good precise machining, like a La Rue Mount, and a flat bottom you can use feeler gauges.
Just put enough feeler gauges between the mount and the scope turret bottom. Then tighten the scope ring screws to torque. The flat on the mount and the scope turret bottom will be level. NOTE: You may have to take out some of the feeler gauges as you tighten the ring screws or you could damage the scope by have too much upward force on the bottom of the turret.